Friday, July 19, 2013

Getting the treatment.

We were the last four of the group to leave the city of Maoxine the others had left early morning.  The weather overnight had been very bad with  heavy rain and we waited back a few hours hoping it would clear.  No indication that the weather would improve anytime soon.  We rode off in light drizzle hoping that we had avoided the worst of the rainfall for the day.  
My first observation was that there was very light traffic on the highway not a good sign as it is usually very busy.
The second observation further down the highway was miles of stationary traffic.  Being on bikes we weaved our way through the traffic to the front.  Kimberley and Vaughan were stuck in the traffic jam.  Jon was sitting in his truck with a despondent look on his face.  A tunnel was the cause of the holdup which was blocked at both ends with landslide rubble.  Large excavators were working hard to clear the rubble from the roadway.  As soon as there was a path wide enough for a bike we slipped through.  We went past miles of cars and trucks on the other side of the tunnel which were stuck waiting for the road to be cleared.
We encountered several other landslides which blocked the road especially for larger vehicles than ours.
The highway winds it way through mountain gorges and valleys.  The highway is world class with some tunnels being six kilometres long.  We crossed several bridges one of which was later washed away by floodwater.
The accident occurred after I entered one of the tunnels.  The heavy rain, debris from the landslides and other rubbish was being washed into the tunnels making the road surface dangerous.  That is where I came to grief.  The front tyre lost traction and I briefly tried to control the bike before realising it was a lost cause.  I let the bike go from underneath me and it slipped down the road with me following.   Unfortunately my hip took the impact of the road and I felt it break. 
I was the last in the group so the others saw what happened in there rear view mirrors.
No one else was injured - just me.
There was not a lot of traffic on the road but an English speaking Chinese couple stopped.  The couple offered to take me to hospital.  I got into the back seat and left my group to sort out the accident scene. 
An hour later I was at Chengdu Hospital .  Chengdu has a population of eleven million people.  Roll Melbourne and Sydney into one city and gives you an idea of the size.  The hospital is equally as large to cater for the number of patients that use the facility.
The assisting couple sourced a stretcher for me from inside the causality ward.  They then aided me in getting from the back seat to the stretcher.  There was a long wait at reception and some money had to be paid to the cashier to advance me to the next stage.  I had no money so the couple had to pay for me.
Typical causality ward, everyone needing help and only so many nurses to go around.  Long wait before the stretcher was being pushed down a corridor.  Alright now I am waiting in a corridor.  The couple come out of a doorway and discuss having to pay more money.  They ask if I have money to repay them if they pay for me.  I re-assure them that I have access to funds just not now.  They return with a receipt.
A young orthopaedic surgeon comes out of the office with the receipt in hand twists my leg and says "It's broken".  Thank you for that.
Down another corridor I go and a long wait with other injured people.  An elderly Tibetan couple were nursing a young boy who was unconscious and appeared to have a high fever.  How lucky am I?  The child looked near to death and everyone to busy to intervene.
A door opened and the orthopaedic surgeon re-appears and pulls my stretcher into an X - ray room.  He does the X-ray himself and the pushes me back into the corridor where I continue my wait.
Several hours pass before Clive, Artur, Lun and Jon arrive and find me in the corridor.  They reimburse the young Chinese couple who would not take any extra to cover their expenses.  They discuss with the surgeon my situation.  It appears that I need a new prosthetic hip fitted.  They contacted the insurance company that sold me travel insurance and reported the accident.
Artur when he arrived also saw the unconscious young Tibetan child and started splashing money around to expedite the child's treatment.  It worked because a doctor intervened and the child regained consciousness.  Hate to think what may have happened to the little fella otherwise.
Decision time.  Have a new hip fitted now - this afternoon in Chengdu or wait for the insurance company to Medivac to a better facility.  I decided on the latter.  My travel insurance covers the cost of Medical Evacuation and Repatriation back to Australia - worth every cent of the premium.
The surgeon was surprised that I decided to wait.  He had the view that his hospital is world class and my treatment would not be better anywhere else.  If I was going to wait I needed to have my hip stabilised.  For that to be done I was taken a treatment room.
No matter how bad things are there is always someone worse off.  Prone on the stretcher being rolled into the treatment room I could hear painful groans coming from the room.  I had to have a look at who I was sharing this treatment room with.  Horror of horrors - is that an Epee pierced through that man's penis and scrotum?   The young man had hold of the fencing blade with a white knuckle grip against his chest.  Ouch.
Anyway I left that room with a plaster caste from my belly button to my knees.  Thank you Clive and Jon for services rendered beyond anything I could have expected.
Now the wait for the Insurance Company to come to my rescue.  That should happen very quick - maybe not.  Only  available place for my stretcher until then was in a very big 'observation ward'.  Chinese hospitals work on a very different system to Australia.  Families take much more control of the patients treatment. 
The observation ward where I was 'warehoused' was clean, there were a lot of nursing staff, the equipment modern and not unlike an Australian hospital.  The big difference was the numbers of people gathered around each patient.  Each patient had at least two or three family members with them.  These family members were doing bed washes, laundry, meals, collecting and administering medication as well taking care of toileting the patient.
It wasn't long before I needed to urinate.  Not a job that the nursing staff should be  helping with apparently.  I had to buy a bed pan and bottle.  "Where is your family to help?"  I asked that question dozens of times.
Day one and night one came and went at a snail's pace.  No food, no medication, no assistance with toilet.  I get the impression that these people don't see Europeans in the flesh often - if at all.  It was not unusual to have my curtain pulled back and for over a dozen Chinese folk to gather round my bed and have a good long gawk.  "He look funny this white monkey boy".
Day two and men from my group arrived.  Food - yes.  Medication - pain relief at last.  Urine bottle empty - great I can use it again.
Another night and a morning in the observation ward proved to be just to much to bear.  The boys arranged for an ambulance to take me to their hotel.  They could monitor me and my treatment could continue from there.  No onlookers - television - food - socialisation - all good.  What the hell are the insurance company doing?  Four days since the accident and still they have to admit liability - their shareholders should be comforted to know they tried every way to avoid my claim.
Day five - the insurer finally admits liability and is putting an action plan in place.   First back to Chengdu hospital but into a VIP, Gold Pass, room with a personal assistant through in.     Out of the hotel bed - Jens had the job of doing the bed washes - thank mate - how can I ever repay you.
A couple of days in Chengdu hospital waiting for something to happen.  Eventually on day seven the insurance company flew me from Chengdu to Bangkok in a private jet.  I now have a room at the world class Bumrungrad Hospital. 
Shirley flew in yesterday to be with me. 
They replaced my right hip with a shiny new metal one.  I was rather attached to the bone one.
Lots of questions have been asked.  So here is a short Q&A
And when?
Friday the 9th July - I think ( on heavy doses of morphine )
When and where will you be able to get the operation?
Done
Are you staying in the Chengdu hospital until then? 
I was Chengdu for seven days waiting for the insurance company to accept my claim and then organise the operation.  That is a story in it's self.  Once they accepted liability their service has been great.  Hate to think what it is costing.
There must have been so much going through your head after it happened, what are your feelings now?  
My thoughts were family and then family again.  The impact on family and the implication on my health going forward which impacts on family.  I have been in vehicular accidents and incidents that should have killed me but didn't.  I consider myself fortunate to have avoided major injury until now after almost sixty years.





Thank you for the telephone calls and messages of support.  I am doing well and will up and about soon.

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Broken hip

The extreme weather in Sichuan Province claims another victim.  Landslides, flooding and heavy rain has killed dozens.  It also played a significant role in my trip coming to an end.

Hope to get medical evacuation back to Australia.  The Chinese surgeon said I need a hip replacement - bugger, bitch, bum.

Having such a good time but it has come an end.

Monday, July 8, 2013

Buddhist temples, monasteries and monks.

During the Cultural Revolution many of the Buddhist temples and monasteries in China were destroyed or badly damaged.  Today there is a massive resurgence of the religion.  Most if not all of the holy sites have been restored or are being restored.

To visit all of the temples and monasteries you would need two lifetimes.  No doubt we will see a lot more as we progress further into the 'Tibetan Cultural' area.

What I found interesting was the people in and around these places of worship.
















     

Country fair, temples and Yaks.

High altitude, warm weather and green pastures all the way to Tongren.

Came across my first herd of Yak on a mountain road.  I was surprised how small they are.  They are only about as tall as the motorcycle.  I expected big animals because of the photographs I've seen.

The bulls are obviously bigger but still not huge.














In the middle of what seemed nowhere there was community gathering which had a 'country fair' feeling to it.





Almost at every turn there are places of religious significance.  I thought this little temple had an aura of peace and tranquility.


It was a very pleasant ride through country that is harsh but also beautiful.  Mid summer the three thousand seven hundred and sixty seven metre altitude didn't offer much of a challenge - different story mid winter.









   

Minle

It has taken almost fifteen days but today we started to leave the deserts of China.

The six bikes have been travelling together without the two trucks.  The trucks are a lot slower having to negotiate the traffic without the advantage of being smaller and far more maneuverable.  Road rules don't seem to apply although Chinese drivers are more courteous than those in the 'stans'.   We have been pushing hard at times and riding in a manner that would draw attention in Australia but here we just blend with everyone else.

We have not been bothered by the police or any other official.  Reading blogs about driving in China the consensus was that motorcycles are not permitted to use the expressways.  That has not been our experience as the officials just wave us through.

On the way to the small rural town of Minle we stopped for lunch in the city of Zhangye.  The city boasts having the largest sleeping Buddha in the world.  It was on the itinerary to visit so we met up with the guys from the trucks.











Minle was described to us as a small rural town.  Turns out that it has a population of about sixty thousand.  We turned up at the 'government' hotel well in advance of the guide who was in one of the trucks.  We caused a huge stir - I doubt that these people had ever seen Europeans before.

We walked to a local shop that served food and sat down for meal of noodles.  It wasn't long before three police officers turned up and handed out "Foreign visitor registration' forms.  Apparently we should have registered upon entry into town.  The officers were polite but didn't understand a word of English and we didn't understand Chinese.  Thirty minutes of hand gestures eventually worked and they understood that the process of registering would be done by our guide.  They seemed happy with that and left only to return later when Lun arrived.

As a group we went for a walk around the town late into the evening and the local country folk couldn't help but stare.  We could not have been more different.

Fireworks were constantly going off.  I asked Lun, our guide, why so often.  He said that almost no reason was required.  It could be for a wedding announcement, birth of a child, birthday, an event with a happy outcome, etc.

Almost hourly a powerful speaker system would broadcast a woman's voice around the town.  Lun explained that it was hangover from the Cultural Revolution when it was the only form of news that people got. 

One old lady when confronted by us as a group turned and ran away petrified.  Poor old thing - probably had a lifetime of negative information about us.     
  



  

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Jiayu Pass Fortress












Get up close to the wall you can see the wear and tear on the surface of the wall.










The wall extending outwards from the fortress.  The wall now disappears into the largest steel works in the Province.












The fortress still intact back in 1908 six hundred years after it was built.  No doubt there has been a few touch ups since then but this section is the best section of the Great Wall that there is.