Leaving Sighnaghi via the city's fortified walls we had to negotiate the road down the mountain which was littered with tight switchbacks. It would have been a great ride and an opportunity for some knees down riding but unfortunately the road surface was very bad.
It was quick ride to the border from there. The Georgian side was a quick check of the passports and motorcycle registration papers then we were allowed to cross to the Azerbaijan side. It seemed a bit ominous when the sign on the Georgian side said, "You are now entering Azerbaijan - Good Luck"The Azerbaijan border post appeared new. First we were stopped by a young soldier. When he received a radio message he allowed me to enter. The second stop was another young soldier who indicated which part of the check point I should go to. The third stop was by a senior soldier who indicated where I should park my bike. He spoke good English and he asked to see my passport. He commented on the fact that my photograph included a goatee beard and long hair. He said "Athos, Portos, Arimis, you D'Artagnan" We both laughed - I thought it best to.
He then sent me to a window where I spoke to an official who entered all my details onto the computer. He stamped the passport and sent me to the next window. The next window was another official who was concerned with the bike papers. He entered all the details onto the computer and gave me two slips of paper. A Customs officer wondered by and checked out the bike and then wondered off.
One official did ask me how long I visited Armenia for. I said that I hadn't and he was happy with that. It may well be true that the officials frown on people trying to enter Azerbaijan after consorting with the enemy - Armenia.
I asked an official what was next and he indicated the exit. At the exit a soldier stopped and asked for the slips of paper I had been given and he took one and then indicated that I was free to go. No horror stories to tell about corrupt officials - once again misinformation everywhere.
I have read that the Azeri police prey on speeding tourists and this information has been confirmed by Jon Beardmore (one of the men we join to travel through China ) who said that he was intercepted by a traffic policeman. The policeman wanted two hundred Euro for a minor traffic infringement. Apparently the speed restriction for a town extends one to two kilometres beyond the town. Jon finally settled on paying seventy five Euro.
We rode through several police checkpoints and passed several police cars and we were not troubled by them in any way but that is not to say our turn is just around the corner. The road from the crossing is atrocious and not conducive to speeding anyway. While the surface of the road is bad it passes through rows of overhanging trees. It was like that for nearly one hundred kilometres interrupted by townships only.
Tonight we stay at Oguz, Azerbaijan.
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