I met several English speaking Azeri men here at the hotel and we have had conversations that always start with "How much did you pay for that motorcycle?" The average 'Joe' or is that 'Mustafa' cannot afford a BMW so anything with a BMW logo is or must be expensive.
When I explain that my motorcycle is nine years old. That it was a repairable write-off which I had to repair. When they satisfy themselves I am not a rich man fortunately the conversations move on from there.
I admit my sample is small and may not be representative of the majority but surprisingly they don't mind making fun of themselves. They laugh about the corruption that starts with even the lowest paid job and goes all the way to the top. They laugh about the horrendous traffic and the non-compliance with the traffic rules - what there are some rules????. They laugh about how people living outside the country perceive them. Deep down I suspect there is a sense of disquiet and melancholy in their humour. They all would like for things to be different.
Apparently the traffic police say "I need breakfast" if they want money from you. Well most of them look like they have had their share of breakfasts.
I read up on the president. Wikipedia and other websites are not complimentary. They allege that he is a gambler and is enriching himself at the expense of his own country. They allege that his family own overseas real estate worth hundreds of millions. I don't know if that is correct or not but it is consistent with what the Azeri men are saying.
I asked about the secular state and the fact that not many appear to be religious. There are only a few mosques and most people don't comply with Islamic teaching in regards to clothing, alcohol and even food. Apparently the 'system' discourages Islam having to much influence even more so than in Europe for example. Discrimination in the schools and workplaces is commonplace - I am told. They are Muslim and want to be more observant.
In the evening I went for a walk to Martyr's Alley. It is like our Shrine of Remembrance in St. Kilda Road, Melbourne. In 1990 the Azeri fought the Soviets for their independence. The Alley, which is built on top of the hill overlooking Baku, commemorates the men and women that were killed.
When I explain that my motorcycle is nine years old. That it was a repairable write-off which I had to repair. When they satisfy themselves I am not a rich man fortunately the conversations move on from there.
I admit my sample is small and may not be representative of the majority but surprisingly they don't mind making fun of themselves. They laugh about the corruption that starts with even the lowest paid job and goes all the way to the top. They laugh about the horrendous traffic and the non-compliance with the traffic rules - what there are some rules????. They laugh about how people living outside the country perceive them. Deep down I suspect there is a sense of disquiet and melancholy in their humour. They all would like for things to be different.
Apparently the traffic police say "I need breakfast" if they want money from you. Well most of them look like they have had their share of breakfasts.
I read up on the president. Wikipedia and other websites are not complimentary. They allege that he is a gambler and is enriching himself at the expense of his own country. They allege that his family own overseas real estate worth hundreds of millions. I don't know if that is correct or not but it is consistent with what the Azeri men are saying.
I asked about the secular state and the fact that not many appear to be religious. There are only a few mosques and most people don't comply with Islamic teaching in regards to clothing, alcohol and even food. Apparently the 'system' discourages Islam having to much influence even more so than in Europe for example. Discrimination in the schools and workplaces is commonplace - I am told. They are Muslim and want to be more observant.
In the evening I went for a walk to Martyr's Alley. It is like our Shrine of Remembrance in St. Kilda Road, Melbourne. In 1990 the Azeri fought the Soviets for their independence. The Alley, which is built on top of the hill overlooking Baku, commemorates the men and women that were killed.
Getting to the top of the hill was quite a climb but well worth the views once there.
Also at the top of the hill these buildings stand beside one another. One pays homage to the 'here and now' while the other to the 'here after'.
No doubt Baku is trying very hard to show the rest of the world that it is open for business. It recently had the Eurovision Song Contest and it won the right to host the Olympics in 2020. Building projects are steaming ahead and new shopping precincts charge European prices plus.
Some are enjoying the spoils of the booming economy. The owner of the big yacht in the background below named his boat "Sedation". Now that got me to thinking is that what he does, sedate people, or is that what the boats serves to do i.e., sedate the owner after all the worry he or she has counting the money.
Evening arrived and Red Bull, the caffeine drink, was in town with their stunt motocross riders. Had to go and be part of the free action.
These guys are good - go on try doing that with a R1200GS.
Getting to know Baku better than I expected and better than I hoped. Only two days to go before I get on that ferry - fingers crossed.
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